When it comes to travel in South Africa, I often feel like I've seen it all. But every now and then, a place manages to knock me off balance and remind me just how much beauty there is left to discover in my country. GweGwe Beach Lodge on the Wild Coast, along the continent's eastern cape, is exactly that kind of place.
Most people arrive at this remote lodge by helicopter, boat or small plane. But since GweGwe is relatively close to my home, I decided to take the scenic route and drive. Scenic is an understatement: We drove through rolling green hills (I know this sounds cliche, but there is no better word for the views), passing cheerful herders tending to sheep, goats and the occasional donkey. At one point, a very determined pig trotted across the road like it owned the place.
When we arrived, the lodge almost snuck up on us. Tucked discreetly into the hills above the coast, it felt like the lodge had rolled it into the landscape intentionally. If you didn't know it was there, you might miss it entirely. That subtlety turns out to be GweGwe's secret weapon. It's not trying to compete with its surroundings; it actually blends in.
• Cover story: An African safari for every budget
Stepping out of the car, we were met by the lodge manager, barefoot and grinning. "Welcome to GweGwe," he said, handing me a chilled drink. "We're not your regular luxury lodge -- here, you can relax and let your guard down." It felt less like a scripted line and more like simple, unpretentious honesty.
When people say the Wild Coast is "untouched," I now understand they mean it. It feels like a tropical hideaway, with miles of ocean stretching endlessly in front of you. But at the same time, it's unmistakably African.
On the first morning, I woke up to a herd of blesbok antelope grazing right outside my window with the vast blue ocean stretching behind them. It was the simplest yet most awe-inspiring way to begin the day. On our way back from breakfast, we watched a troop of baboons playing on the private beach, the little ones turning somersaults in the sand. My teenage daughters loved every second. Phones in hand, they documented the whole thing, announcing that GweGwe's beaches were "peak Instagram material." High praise indeed.
Take a hike
Of all the adventures GweGwe offers, the guided hike to its hidden waterfalls was my favorite. Our guide, Asanda, grew up in the area, and it showed in the way he moved through the landscape: effortlessly, barefoot and seemingly in tune with the land around him.
The hike itself was an adventure. Along the way, Asanda pointed out medicinal plants and shared personal stories about his childhood. He told us how, as a boy, he would guide cattle through these very hills. His storytelling alone could've carried the experience, but then we arrived at Strandloper Falls.
Strandloper is the kind of waterfall that dares you to do something brave. The water plunges into what looks like a modest puddle. In fact, this "puddle" is an impossibly deep pothole, carved by time and water. "It's completely safe," Asanda said, laughing. Then, without a second of hesitation, he leapt off the edge, disappearing into the void below. After a few seconds of suspense, he popped back up, drenched and grinning ear to ear. "Your turn," he called out.
I wish I could say I jumped. I really do. But gazing into what felt like the abyss, self-preservation won. My family? Same story. We all chickened out, choosing instead to cheer Asanda on from the sidelines. Still, watching him make that leap -- and survive it with ease -- was exciting enough for me.
Baboon Cave near GweGwe Beach Lodge, where baboons return each night to sleep under the stars to the soothing sound of the cascading falls. Photo Credit: Dorine Reinstein
The next waterfall at Baboon Cave was pure magic and felt completely tucked away from the world. There, my daughter had the fright of her life when she leapt into the water and an eel popped up beside her. "That's Billy!" Asanda said with a laugh, explaining how the eel had miraculously made its way from the ocean to settle happily in this remote pool. It's little details like these that brought GweGwe to life for us.
Horseshoe Falls, our final stop, offered a calmer kind of wonder. We explored quiet swimming holes and admired ancient Bushmen rock paintings etched into the stone. Asanda explained that these faint markings told stories of the land and its people -- a reminder of how deep history runs through this quiet coastal region.
• Related: Indulging in South Africa's Winelands
Beyond the waterfalls, GweGwe offers slower, more reflective adventures. Paddling along the mangroves on a stand-up paddleboard or in a canoe is an experience that quiets the mind. Floating along the water, surrounded by nothing but the sounds of nature, feels like stepping out of time.
Of course, there's also the option to do absolutely nothing -- and GweGwe does "nothing" very well. Back at the lodge, I found myself lounging in a hot tub with a jaw-dropping view of the ocean, watching the waves roll in as the sky turned gold. It's indulgent in the way only nature can be: simple, soothing and unbelievably beautiful.
The food deserves its own love letter. Almost every day, we were treated to fresh fish, caught locally and paired with dishes inspired by ingredients of the region. Each meal felt deeply rooted in the Wild Coast while catering to the high expectations of a luxury lodge.
A local focus
However, what struck me most about GweGwe was how naturally it integrates its commitment to the local Ama-Mpondo community. Rather than pay lip service to uplifting the community, the lodge quietly and authentically offers opportunities to the people who call this place home. Asanda's story is a perfect example, one of many showing how GweGwe doesn't just exist alongside this community but within it.
Enjoying an ocean view from a guestroom at GweGwe Beach Lodge was the ideal way to start each day. Photo Credit: Dorine Reinstein
The lodge's conservation efforts are equally exciting, especially its plans to reintroduce white rhinos to the Mkambati Reserve. The Green Griffons, an all-female anti-poaching unit, will lead the charge in creating a safe future for this endangered species while empowering local women in conservation. "Why all women?" I asked one of the staff. "Because there's just too much testosterone in all-male groups!" came the cheeky reply. But beneath the humor is a serious intention: empowering women to lead the fight to protect their heritage -- and this land's most vulnerable wildlife.
The lodge is operated by Natural Selection, though it is not for the exclusive use of the tour operator's guests.
If you're planning a trip to GweGwe, I'd say it pairs perfectly with a more wildlife-oriented lodge like Phinda, just up the coast in KwaZulu-Natal province. Together, these two destinations deliver the most complete African experience: from GweGwe's hidden waterfalls, wild beaches and paddling adventures to Phinda's Big Five encounters and game drives. Traveling between them is a reminder of just how diverse and magical this stretch of South Africa truly is.