Felicity Long
News of overtourism in Europe has become depressingly familiar once again, and unfortunately, Lisbon has joined the ranks of cities whose locals are pushing back against the crowds. Does this mean would-be visitors should drop Portugal -- by all accounts, one of the great destinations of Europe -- from their wish lists? I hope not.
One obvious solution is to avoid Lisbon in high season, when its narrow, picturesque streets in the historic city center are clogged with tourists. Another move, equally obvious but sometimes difficult to convince travelers to try, is to explore the surrounding countryside.
A strong contender for option 2 is Alentejo, less than an hour from Lisbon and offering the charm and culture that draws visitors to Portugal in the first place -- but without the bustle.
The region, which stretches from the Tejo River to the northern mountains of the Algarve, is notable for its red cork oak forests -- almost half of the world's cork is produced here -- its ancient towns and its cultural traditions redolent with Moorish influences.
But while the pace of life moves slowly here, that doesn't mean it's standing still.
For example, the Quinta do Paral - The Wine Hotel marked its grand opening in June in the vineyards of Apartado. The 22-room boutique hotel, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World, features design elements and artwork by artist David Reis Pinto, inspired by the winemaking traditions of the Vidigueira region.
The hotel's architecture, the work of Saraiva & Associados, highlights the local culture, with terracotta tiles, whitewashed walls and traditional, geometric ceramic screens, known as celosias. Rooms start at about $420 per night.
Also new is the O Val Farmhouse, located on the Herdade de Vale Guardez in Monforte in the Portalegre district.
The five-room rural retreat is available for buyouts at a rate of around $900 per night with a minimum stay of six nights.
Authentic features include original vaulted ceilings, slate floors, thick white walls and the small windows typical of the Alto Alentejo region.
The property also features a black stripe design on its exterior and throughout the interior, designed by French artist Sam Baron, which pays homage to the family's origins in the Azores.
On the other end of the spectrum, the new AP Lago Montargil Conference & Spa, which offers views of the Montargil Dam, features 99 rooms, six suites and 11 nautically themed villas with private pools. There also is a 3,000-square-foot spa, watersports facilities and a large conference center.
Meanwhile, Mercan Properties Group opened the 76-room Holiday Inn Express Evora hotel near city center at the Portas de Avis. The property features a pool, restaurant, lounge bar and meetings rooms.
The company also opened a second hotel in the city, the new four-star Holiday Inn Beja. Part of an urban rehabilitation initiative, the hotel features 95 rooms across four floors and is located near such historical landmarks as the Beja Castle and Cathedral. The property preserved the original building facade, which now features a work by Portuguese graffiti and street artist Vhils.
As to the future, one notable development on the horizon is the Herdade da Palheta project, set to open in 2028 on about 740 acres near Evora. The five-star retreat will feature 60 guestrooms, 35 villas, 20 countryside homes and a wine club housed in a historic winery, all designed to offer a modern take on the region's rural lifestyle.